On culinary wanderlust, with recipes for fried fish, savory bread pudding and more.
Good morning. “We domestic sensualists live in a state of longing, no matter how comfortable our own places are,” Laurie Colwin wrote in “The Lone Pilgrim,” and I often think about that when I’m cooking. I could be, for instance, halfway through the preparation of Heston Blumenthal’s magical recipe for fried fish with vodka and beer batter (above) and realize, deep in my bones, that what I really desire is kimchi grilled cheese, or chicken paprikash.
But then again, when I’m finished with my work? That fish! The crust is shatteringly crisp and the cod within it deeply moist, perfectly cooked, improved only by a sprinkle of salt and a spray of lemon juice. I’ll inhale it with crisp potatoes on the side.
And if I’m still tempted by the notion of other things I might have made instead, those can follow in the next day’s cooking: roasted shrimp with bread crumbs, say. Or chili! Maybe crème fraîche pasta with peas and scallions. And definitely Key lime pie.
I’m not complaining like some guy with a loaf of bread under his arm. My work puts me in contact with so much deliciousness that it can leave me giddy. Take a look at this savory bread pudding with artichokes, Cheddar and scallions! Consider these slow-cooker pork tacos with hoisin and ginger. What about making chicken yassa? Or crispy tofu with balsamic tomatoes? Buttery scallops with lemon and herbs? Follow your longing. It is why we are here.
There are many thousands more recipes awaiting your inspection on New York Times Cooking. (And further inspiration may be found on our TikTok, Instagram and YouTube channels.) As my old boss at The Times, Jonathan Landman, would put it, it’s a true fact that you need a subscription to access them. Subscriptions provide the fuel for our stoves. They are what allow us to continue this work that we love. If you haven’t taken one out yet, would you consider subscribing today? We are very grateful.
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Now, it has nothing whatsoever to do with tempering chocolate or making a roux, but I liked Susan Morrison’s interview with Judd Apatow, in The New Yorker. Apatow’s cool idea: “If you’re studying to be an editor, someone should give you two million feet of film of ‘Knocked Up’ and say, ‘O.K. Don’t look at the original movie. Turn this into a movie.’ That would be great.”
In The Nation, Barry Schwabsky asked, “Why do we even have art museums?”
For 5280, Kelly Bastone checked in on the #vanlife residents of Colorado mountain towns, where some local governments are rethinking parking rules to accommodate workers who can’t afford traditional housing.
Finally, here’s some new music from the New Zealand singer-songwriter Aldous Harding to play us off, “She’ll Be Coming Round the Mountain.” Talk about longing. Listen to that, and I’ll be back on Wednesday.
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April 04, 2022 at 10:00PM
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What to Cook Right Now - The New York Times
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